The many faces of Bayon Temple

VBoth Kurt and I enjoyed Bayon temple the most. With its many faces which once were Buddah however changed to become the many faces of the king. The temple itself is set in the middle of Angkor Thom a complex containing a few temples including Bapuon which we hadn't intended to visit though ended up there anyway, an 11th century temple with incredibly steep steps built to reach the top. Keeping in mind that those tiny steps are built on top of the original even tinier steps!!! 

Bayon is beautiful we arrived as dusk was setting in, originally I had thought that I wanted to see Bayon at sunset instead of doing Angkor Wat and dawn and I'm so glad I made that decision.

The temple has so many dimensions and outlooks, stunning from any angle and with the sun setting over the smiling faces looking out to the horizon it is completely mesmerising.

I hope one day I get the chance to return and spend a little more time exploring and admiring the temples it's hard to do them in a day so next time I will take longer. 

Ta Prohm - 'Tomb Raider'

I can completely see the appeal for film makers in Ta Prohm built in the 12-13th century unlike the other temples this one has been left in the condition it was found. The photogenic and atmospheric combination of trees growing out of the ruins and the jungle surroundings have made it one of Angkor's most popular temples. Currently some parts of Ta Prohm are being restored which kind of took some of the magic away for us..hammering and crane noises etc though the deeper you get the further away everything else seems and now we could focus on well..the now :) it makes you want to climb and jump across boulders and swing from ropes and be Indiana Jones or Lara Croft. 

It's an incredible place full of what feels like magic, overgrown cotton trees with enourmous root bases wrapping and interlacing through the temple walls. It makes you want to find out where they've had to venture from just to work their way to where they now rest. 

The corridors, tunnels and hidden passage ways make this temple one of my favourites, it genuinely feels like a crumbling maze under your feet. 

The Temples of Angkor-Angkor Wat

OI am by no means a 'temple enthusiast' however I can certainly appreciate an ancient wonder of our world or 2 or 3 or 4 or 5..... 

Temple hopping is a fine art and I definitely do not have wat it takes...(get it?). 

We left around 8:30am and skipped the sunrise because I preferred sleep and also wanted to avoid the endless throngs of uber keen tour groups with their enormous cameras and that charming early morning hocking, gagging and spitting during the beautiful sunrise. I have seen enough to actively avoid those buses in particular :( yet another reason why I loved Phnom Penh a wee bit more than Siem Reap.

Any who I'm getting off track, first stop Angkor Wat.

The largest ancient religious structure in the world and it certainly takes your breath away..every step closer to the structure you begin to see the details, the carvings, the out lay and your mind starts to create a picture of what it would have been like in its hay day. Built in the 12th century by the King Angkor Wat is built to honour Vishnu as oppose to Shaiva which all previous temples were built in honour of. Arriving there just as all the early morning buses and tours are leaving its a much nicer atmosphere, you can see the corridors when they are almost empty, you admire the carvings and the intricacies of every minute detail. 

Walking the halls and trying to understand the stories of these Hindu and Buddist deities, that being said you can purchase a guide at the entrance legitimate or not, we just wanted to wander however I did get suckered into buying a little guide book on the temples (don't worry mum you can have a read). Little tip for anyone who wants a 'guided' tour without paying for the guide: pick a corridor and stand somewhat in the middle ish...wait for 10 minutes whilst admiring the carving work then just wait for the English speaking tour guides to pass you, they come from both directions to ease traffic congestion so as one finishes speaking another one has stopped to begin, not all of their information is the same which makes it interesting and it just so happens that your standing where you need to stand to hear what they have to say when they stop with their group ;)

Angkor Wat is beautiful it pays to stop and take it in, the sheer size is mind boggling just imagining where and more importantly HOW all this stone was brought here and just how long it must have taken not only to construct but to begin each one of those corridors, columns and arch ways. Currently a lot of it is being restored so it can remain in a state that is safe to visit. The decades of visitors show in the shine of the bottom half of the carvings years of hands rubbing and touching them. It is the only temple still in full use as oppose to the others which have in some cases been left to ruin.

Trying to cram what we initially thought was going to be three temples in a day we had limited time though enjoyed all of it, some eager travellers could spend days on this one temple...easily. 

One funny moment and of course it's an animal....Macaques....cheeky Macaques dotted the temple and they were VERY easy going though I wasn't tempted to try and pat one after seeing the little crazies running around Phnom Tamao! I caught sight of a big male casually walking past us and he quickened his pace a little, instantly without even looking up I said..."he's probably after someone's plastic bag thinking there is food inside...". Next minute there's a little bit of screaming and the Macaque is now behind a tourist that has a plastic bag of bananas attached to his backpack (hanging below the pack). Clever guy gave up the goods and it was a feast of epic proportions! 

Also bring a 'sweat rag'....mine was my bandana, it was like my body was rejecting water and throwing  it up through my skin (not even joking).

Siem Reap and Motos

Ok so I missed a couple of days...blogging is hard work!!!

To recap I left Free the Bears on Friday and flew to Siem Reap on Saturday morning, I really could have just stayed another night I'd say..I loved Phnom Penh and Phnom Tamao and Free the Bears....ok I LOVE CAMBODIA! Did not think I would become so attached in such a short few weeks. 

Kurt arrived on Sunday morning after prancing me into thinking he would miss his flight which I wasn't impressed at then but now I can laugh because he's waaaay too good at being able to pull one over on me! Siem Reap is vastly different to Phnom Penh it's so much less chaotic and busy, it feels almost sleepier though being the city that ALL the hotel giants plant their big hotels, it's all big, beautiful 5 star hotels and not nearly as many guest houses and hostels though in saying that the staff everywhere are just as personable and polite and wonderful anywhere you go. 

A lot more shopping and handicrafts plenty of opportunity to barter and to be honest now that I can count 1-20 in Khmer I seem to be winning the bartering they say "8 dollar" I say "boun" (4) they laugh and say "ok" then continue on in Khmer before I stop them to say I didn't know anymore than that.

On Monday we did a Moto tour with 'Siem Reap Moto Tours' and it was a little nerve racking at first with my not knowing how to operate a two wheeled vehicle on any kind and Kurt being the master of dirt biking in my eyes. Bless him he was so patient no screaming down the roads at high speed but at a leisurely pace that I could follow until I was more comfortable.

Side note: Kurt just informed me of my 'blogging face'....described as facial contortions while my brain goes crazy trying to recall things.

Anyway I managed to somewhat master the Moto and is was a ridiculous amount of fun going through the ruts on the red roads, dodging pot holes, negotiating sand which nearly tossed my off my bike a couple of times and to my astonishment held it together and recovered LIKE A BOSS!

We stopped at a couple of quiet villages and met some local ladies who were weaving baskets using grasses, the ones they use to cover food on the table, they take one full day to make and $5 to buy at the market. Makes me wonder where the ones we get at home are made and how, machinery or hand made?

Everywhere we went children ran and waved, screaming "hello!" and with all my skills I managed to not fly off the bike when I waved back ;) apparently they rarely see westerners out that way and I'm not surprised, we were really out there! We rode for 2 hours to Beng Melea temple just as every single tour bus and car was headed in the opposite direction (just as expected). For the first temple I was seeing I was surprised just how massive the complex was! Built in the 12th century in memorial for the king and built of course by the king (no surprises there). Some had been destroyed during the war though a huge amount of it remained standing in all its glory. It's beautiful to see the jungle reclaiming what once belonged to it, vines growing from the ground up over and through the structures. Our guide took us off the path whether that's actually aloud or not I'm not actually sure BUT as this was the King's memorial and unlike Angkor Wat I'm sure it was almost aloud but not quite aloud for reasons of personal injury if it occurred, though I'm thankful he did take us around because I wouldn't have seen half of what we saw though I won't be attempting that at any other temples.

We stopped and tried some Palm juice which is alcoholic and tastes like " KAPOW!" and then ok time to jump on the motos. I tried the most sugary of sugar cane juices which is like "KAPOW!" hope your ready for a nap in an hour...

Cruised through the red roads and jungle, past the 100 year old Palm trees and rice fields across some crazy Dr Seuss bridge which I didn't succeed very well at (have a look when my videos are finished on my YouTube channel). Despite how annoying and surprisingly slippy sand is I had fun trying to negotiate those paths too, all part of the challenge and happily I feel like a have a new skill :) don't expect me to go jumping on a Moto in Phnom Penh though....I saw enough tourists covered in bandages and heard horror stories of doctors scraping off the scabs and re bandaging the wound and obviously then they wouldn't heal :( 

All in all though arrrrgghhhhh AN AMAZING DAY!!!!! Had so much fun, so stinky and grubby but I definitely recommend it :) 

we looked so pretty checking into the STUNNING 'ANANTARA Angkor Resort and Spa' with a beautiful welcome and as is the custom they gave us facewashers scented with lemongrass on checkin for refreshment...they were given to us white and we gave them back red with dust, dirt and sweat. Cannot believe this place!!! Gotta love those work perks!!!

Sugar Cane Juice

" I think I can, I think I can!!"

Too hot for Kurt

First temple 'tick' :)

Check out that burnt arm....we both forgot sunscreen....ooooooops! 

Total 'Long Way Round' moment ;)

Kurt's riding style

Time to relax!!!! 

One last day to go :(

Quietly devastated that the day is almost here where I have to leave Free the Bears and I really wish I could stay longer despite the predicted temperature of 37 degrees and a hell of a lot of humidity. 

I just finished reading 'Smiling Bears' by Else Poulson, I didn't even realise bears could smile but they do!!! An absolutely incredible read if anyone has the opportunity I read it in 4 days and I am NOT usually a reader, a million references which I have noted so I can go back and find all the books she speaks about, an incredibly passionate soul. 

Just finished packing my bag :( and thank you to all those beautiful souls that bought a tshirt they are safely tucked away in my pack and I will hand deliver them when I return, I guess that means a weekend trip to Dubbo for a visit ;) 

I have melted in the Cambodian sun, my DNA is all over the exhibits providing probably a few months worth of enrichment for the Bears! Not even an understatement...I could have gone swimming in my sports crop and my clothes often came out of the wash smelling worse than when I put them in, worth it? Wouldn't take back a single poop scoop!!! I cannot wait to get home and go through all the footage I have and currently sitting at 60 gig of material. More adventure to come though Kurt arrives on Sunday in Siem Reap (I get there Saturday, so I'll by the pool haha) and we will be exploring Angkor Wat and the rest of the city!!! 

Sadly it's time to put my KingGee work shorts size 87R and the 'R' is for rediculously BIG! to rest. They have been with me since Symbio, my time with TWPZ and FTB and now they will be sweated in, painted on and serve their purpose elsewhere (yes I was weirdly attached to those shorts). I am incredibly impressed with the steel caps I bought off eBay they were from Rivers $25 :) not one single blister and I'd never worn them before!!! They too are being donated onto Imogen who's here at FTB for 19 weeks (jealous!) and I doubt her converse will last the time :/

Now onto my FOURTH book this trip 'Tomorrow when the war began' by John Marsden, I've been pestered to read this for ages and it just so happened to be on the shelf, WINNING!

Ok I'm not going to waffle on anymore, I honestly wish I could be here longer but who knows I might be back at some point. I have learnt so much in such a short time and the Bears are as happy and healthy as they could possibly be, they are loved and cared for, enriched all day everyday and in the best possible place considering they cannot be released. I'm proud to say I have done exactly what I have set out to do and I'm going to keep the pace going at home, my 2015 goals are slowly being met one by one. It's only the start of an incredible year and I've had the kickstart of a lifetime! 

Two questions every keeper should pose to their animals; 

Who are you? and What can I do for you?

-Else Poulsen

THIS..... is a smiling bear, 'Angel'

An example of enclosure size for Moon Bears = HUUUUUUUUUUGE!!!!!!!!

One of many varieties..colours, shapes, smells, consistency and content, as if I wouldn't post one haha

Training day and Cikananga!!!

 

I have to say I had a really good day today I felt like I got to put some of my course knowledge to good use. 

Mr Ping the keeper of house 3 with the Moon Bears is such a lovely human his English is limited and I have worked with him a couple of times now, he absolutely adores those bears! Especially Brandy the 'golden' moon bear but shhhh we don't play favourites. He works on some training and conditioning with 'Taylor' a big female, we worked with her this afternoon in the house before scatter feed. He asks her to climb, to sit and to 'target' placing a yellow block on the ground and says "Taylor target!" and she responds by touching her nose to the block to recieve a piece of banana. As limited as our communication is I asked Mr Ping if I could move the block around to see if she would go for it. He didn't quite understand at first but I showed him moving the block higher onto the bars and have Taylor target it. He asked and she correctly responded touching the block again at a new position right away. Mr Ping was so pleased! He said "I not try this" smiled and thanked me. The look on his face was pure joy that Taylor whom he had trained was so clever and responded positively so quickly. I felt such a sense of pride in myself that I had shown him something new, that he hadn't attempted yet because he's normally on his own and can't move the block quick enough to 'click' and reward. 

Again in our 'lost in translation' conversation I said I'd work with him tomorrow and we will do more training with Taylor and see how good she is moving the block around to different places and points to challenge her. I doubt she will struggle, it's incredible how intelligent these creatures are. Even the Moon Bears in house 2 surprise me, watching one of them lifting the pin out of the slide lock and then finding out that they can actually open the slide in this way. They realised that a while ago and since then introduced caribeenas because the bears can't use them ;)

ATTENTION ALL READERS!!!

I saw a news report this morning about a trafficker that had been arrested in Java and 34 animals including a 4 month old sunbear cub and a baby orangutan were handed over to 'Cikananga' wildlife rescue centre where a volly I was working with Natasha is due to start her role as volunteer coordinator in June. She had finished working with Chikananga last month and they are absolutely desperate for volunteers and funds, even more so now that they have to care for all of these animals! If your reading at home please please PLEASE google the centre and if you can spare a few dollars donate to them as they are in urgent need to support their new arrivals! Their aim is to rehabilitate and to release wherever possible if an animal is healthy and not human dependant but they need our help. I am going to attempt to volunteer when I can at some point and I had decided this long before this had happened on Saturday. 

If at the very least if you cannot donate please simply look at their site, be aware they exist and pass on the information. I know Tash will be putting in the hard yards to push for the word to get out and new volunteers to come, any industry workers, animal students, volunteer or animal enthusiast this place is one of those rare ones where you will be highly involved in all that goes on because they have limited staff and volunteers. This story hit so close to home for me and now having a personal connection I really want to help in anyway I can! 

www.cikanangawildlifecentre.com

Chinese New Year

So Chinese New Year started last Thursday and Phnom Tamao rescue centre was bustling with people, it was a hard day though the amount of people aloud me to see some things which made me sad. It showed me how important education of the next generation will be in this country, simple things which being an animal lover is hard to comprehend over here. 

The poor lions across from the bears had a bit of a rough day, I could see one of them was just fed up with people, he sat at the front of his enclosure at the fence line and was visibly irritable, his wild eyes caught mine as crowds swarmed in front of him. Almost in a stubborn way he refused to move away and growled at people directly in front of him and of course the apparent reaction for some people here is to throw things at the lion to get a great photo...something which unfortunately is a familiar thing at home too. He would launch at the fence to the great delight of visitors and me being me I couldn't stand it so I just kind of sauntered over and tried my best to emulate what they were doing that they shouldn't trying to withhold my crankiness. They did understand though and just stared at me and I just stood there until they moved on, it just goes to show how little is understood in the way of what is considered to be cruel, taunting a lion by throwing things obviously isn't considered to be. Same thing with feeding animals, I caught a couple of people throwing pieces of muesli bars and snacks to an enclosure that holds 8 bears. The bears lined up at the fence waiting to catch a scrap, unfortunately there obviously isn't enough to go around so what else is to happen apart from the bears becoming aggravated and fighting with each other....again much to the delight of the visitors. Same deal again here I just stood there, emulated and waited until they left. 

It's just something that the Cambodian people don't understand and Free the Bears works with local schools to educate children and give them an understanding of what is considered to be cruel and why hunting and owning an illegal pet isn't a good for them or the animal.

In the wake of this countries sad history people were looking for a way to survive, a way to feed their families and repairing their lives and this would always come before anyone even thought of the suffering of animals...simply unheard of. I completely understand this, it's a nation thrown into turmoil and looking for a resource for money and bears happens to be one, they did it out of necessity not out of greed unlike some of the canned hunting that goes on in Africa egged on by rich tourists.

So for the future of wildlife here education is key, for the country to begin to repair its environment education is key...

Very simple things that at home people don't approve of such as littering...eating my lunch I watch a little girl open her bag of chips and through the top seal on the ground, it actually really shocked me just to see it in person and I was genuinely surprised at my reaction despite seeing the country side with more garbage masses than grass.....again a people that doesn't understand the long term reprocussioins of single handedly ruining their environment due to a lack of education and government services such as garbage pick up etc that we have, its simply not done...good luck ever finding a garbage can here.

Probably the hardest thing I saw that day was the beggars... everyday entering the sanctuary the older generation is lining the road holding a bowl or hands in prayer form begging for money. Maybe any given day we'd see roughly 10 people but on Chinese New Year, it was around 50 or more lining both sides, old men, women and very young children, begging for money as you drive past and this is all they have to do. It seems once your unfit to work or too old to be useful you end up begging as there is nowhere for you in society, though I wonder where their families are? There are grandparents teaching their grandchildren to beg because people feel sorry for children and cough up the money in turn these children will never recieve an education because collecting money and picking up cans for a 0.50c per kilo return is much more worth it to their families. 

Children and elderly or disabled people will beg everywhere and you never know where that money is going, more likely it is going to someone controlling that sector of a cities poor population almost like a mafia scenario. No matter what you give them it's likely it will be sold on even food, so as a tourist I cannot do it, in my own mind as much as it hurts I can't give in to it. Mothers carrying babies on the street begging because it will likely bring in more money if they hold a tiny sleeping baby then seeing them later counting out their dollar bills from passers by...it's heartbreaking but I cannot give in not knowing where that money will end up. The hardest part leaving the sanctuary on New Year's Day was going back down that 5 km stretch back past the faces and every single one that we passed locked eyes with me, it chipped away more and more, every face that passed until finally my heart felt like someone had squeezed it to within an inch of life.

I know this is not the most pleasant post to read but it is a reality and a harsh one at that. But it opens your eyes to what you may not see though you cannot help but feel.